Over the centuries, through constant collective work, man has managed to
create this landscape, the only one of its kind in the world, safely
kept inside a treasure chest between Punta Mesco and Punta Manara.
A little corner of Liguria where generations have worked to create this
monument in landscape architecture represented by the steep terraces
sloping down to the sea.
Held up by over 7000 km of dry stone walling,
cleverly built without any kind of cement, they are cultivated as
vineyards that reach down to almost touch the lapping sea waves.
The Cinque Terre, recognized by the Unesco “Mankind’s World Heritage”,
are today a National Park and Protected Marine Area with the aim of
protecting this great cultural heritage.
And along the coastline there are five castles,
at nearly the same distance one from the other: 'Rubra, Vulnetia,
Cornelia, Manium Arula, Rivus Maiorche which now are commonly called
Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore not only known in
Italy but also the Welsh and British praise them for their wine's
nobility. Note worthy to see like a spectacle, the mountains not only in
sweet incline but also quick so that even the birds flying over tire.
Covered with stones that don't hold back water, vineyards cover the
land, so meagre and delicate that seem more like ivy than vines. From
here comes wine for the table from a King".
G. Bracelli, "De bello hispaniensi orae ligusticae descriptio", 1448
"A little piece of heaven, Cinque Terre", by Mary Paige Timberlake
"The view was like a vision described in novels; a tiny town that hovered on jagged cliffs and sparkling blue water, and by no means did the "visions" stop through out the day..."
"Destination: Cinque Terre", story by Sergio Ortiz
".. just south of Portofino, five towns on the Ligurian Sea maintain the charm and character of Italian villages of the past. Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are the pastel towns that make up Cinque Terre (five lands). They are vintage settlements where life moves in the key of easy -- each town clinging to the rocky coast, defying gravity and, most of all, defying time....."
"Hidden Gems on the Italian Riviera", Los Angeles Times
"Few Americans have heard of these tiny villages, set like jewels into the Ligurian Coast and known as the Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre is one of those places people tend to read about once and then dream about forever. An isolated part of the northwestern Italian region of Liguria, the Cinque Terre is ruggedly beautiful stretch of coastline inset with five tiny villages perched between the Mediterranean and a range of steep coastal hills. The aura of romance about the place is enhanced by the very names of the five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The doorway is Levanto a beautiful town which is the right place from where is possible to start to visit the Cinque Terre."
THE ROCKY SEA OF THE CINQUE TERRE
The inhabitants of these places had agricultural origins and lived on
the hills. They came down to the coast, once the Saracens had finished
invading, when the sea became safe and populated the villages at the
mouths of the rivers along the shore.
Cinque Terre landscape is harsh and wild and even
the coast reflects this nature. High cliffs reaching down into the
cobalt blue depths of the sea hide minute shingle beaches at Riomaggiore
and Vernazza or tiny “ports” like at Manarola, for pulling up the boats
when the sea is rough. Here, in summer, sunbathers mix with fishermen.
Between Vernazza and Corniglia there is the
romantic beach of Guvano, to be reached on foot. A larger sandy beach,
with facilities, can be found only at Monterosso al Mare.
Without doubt, the best way to discover, to try and understand and enjoy
the Cinque Terre is to visit it on foot. Along the paths and the
centuries old flights of steps, which up to a short while ago were the
only communication routes between the five villages, you come under the
magic of this landscape and its panoramas suspended between sky and sea.
The terraced vineyards alternate with strips of olive trees and where
man has abandoned the soil, the Mediterranean bush has taken over again,
with round euphorbia bushes, broom, white and pink cystus and the agaves
that dot the landscape and heady, spicy perfume of the eternal flower.
The most famous path of the Cinque Terre is the “Via
dell’Amore”, connecting Manarola to Riomaggiore and partially cut out of
the steep cliffs overlooking the sea.
The Cinque Terre, moving by boat.
A regularly scheduled boat trip makes it possible to admire the whole Cinque Terre coastline
along with other nearby places and allows you to move from one village
to the next. The service is not provided in wintertime, for further information on timetables and connections you
may visit the Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti web site. In winter you can rent private
boats.
Walking Trail: Riomaggiore - Monterosso (Blue route along the sea)
Walking time 5 hours.
The trail begins from the FS Station square of Riomaggiore and follows the Via dell'Amore till Manarola (30 min.).
From Manarola it climbs slightly and
then levels out onto a beautiful mule-track that reaches the Corniglia
FS Station and the village with steep stairs (1 hour).
From Corniglia
the trail, while maintaining more or less the same elevation for a long
stretch with some difficult points, goes downhill till Vernazza (1 hour
and 30 min.).
From Vernazza the longer and more tortuous stretch begins
where care must be exercised due to the nature of the soil.
The trail goes
up to 180 m. and in view of Monterosso goes steeply downhill
finishing near the town hall.
Originally, the villages were only accessible by sea or by mule paths
that connected the villages of the Cinque Terre as well as to Via Roma,
the main road that connected all of Italy to Rome. These mule paths have
been maintained and used over the centuries and now provide hikers with
a more intimate view of the sea-swept Cinque Terre.
Today the main communication is with the train, that runs in tunnels
along the coast, and stops in every one of the five villages.
The area was recently designated as part of the national park system and
is considered a protected area, to the effect of limited development and
resource usage.
You are now are required to pay to walk the trails in the Cinque Terre. Manned booths are set up on the trail outside of each Cinque Terre town. You have two options.
The Cinque Terre Card: If you plan to use the trains and the trails, buy the Cinque Terre Card at the train station. This is a one day card that covers unlimited train rides between Levanto and La Spezia (including all the Cinque Terre towns) as well as use of the walking trails. Show your Cinque Terre Card at the booths on the trail. Don't forget to validate the card in one of the stamping machines at the train station before using it.
Trails Card: If you are not going to use the trains, you only need buy the trail pass. You can buy this on the trail at the first booth you see. In 2003, the cost was 3 euro. There is no charge to use the trail between Levanto and Monterosso, only between the five Cinque Terre towns.
The
proceeds of the tickets are used to maintain the trails and to save the
Cinque Terre from decline.
ACCOMMODATIONS Do not expect to find fancy resorts in the Cinque Terre, but a few
small hotels, and many rooms for rent will put you more in touch with
the villages themselves, and with their residents.
Recommended restaurants (we visited them...):
- Ristorante Hotel Gianni Franzi Piazza Marconi 1, tel +39 0187-821-003 Vernazza
